Review by Mike Richeson

Back to Table of Contents | Back to Main Index Previous Reviews | Send mail to The Voice Cajun restaurrant provides unique dining under a bridge A waitress sculpts leftovers into tin foil art. -Thomas Moss, photo The area underneath the Morrison Bridge in Southeast Portland is probably not the first place someone would think of to start a business. It is definitely the last place most people would want to park their cars. Nevertheless, the Montage restaurant, which is indeed underneath the bridge, thrives in this industrial area. The Montage blends in with its surroundings. A blazing neon Rainier Beer sign flickers in the window, and metal bars protect the front door. After you pass through a thick blue curtain, the decapitated head of an alligator and a preserved puffer fish are brief companions until you are shown to a table. Seating at the Montage is informal, and you will probably dine next to a stranger. Private seating isn't available here, only tables in long rows. Despite this, few groups interacted with each other past hello. The Montage is a loud restaurant. Jazz and blues music keep toes tapping as you try to shout over other people's conversations and the hoots and hollers of the patrons at the full-service bar. Artwork abounds here, with paintings and sculptures arranged on the walls and shelves. A 15-foot-long painting of a modified Last Supper framed in gold macaroni hangs on the far east wall. The disciples look as if they are drowning their sorrows, Jesus is wearing a Montage waiter's uniform, and a UFO is flying in the background. The eyes never get bored at the Montage. The wait staff is friendly, helpful and prompt. Dinner arrived before most were done with their salads, which were covered in raspberry walnut vinaigrette or caesar dressing. The Montage specializes in Louisiana Cajun cuisine. Come prepared for catfish, alligator, crawfish, frog legs, mussels and oysters. The famous linguini, with a spicy red sauce and your choice of meat, will leave your lips hot long after the meal is over. The dish costs a minimum of $9.50 for the chicken and up to $14.50 with alligator. The meal comes without a side dish. One popular choice is baked chicken, a seasoned hind quarter with garlic mashed potatoes and homemade chicken gravy. Side dishes include a dinner salad, corn bread and vegetables with hominy. At $8, the meal is one of the least expensive but is light on meat. The Montage also serves a number of macaroni dishes, which cost $5 to $8. These include spam spicy mac, old mac with chicken and spold mac dishes. If you prefer a little color, try the green basil pesto mac. For dessert, the Mississippi mud pie is a must. It's a large serving of mocha ice cream on an Oreo cookie crust, laced with chocolate syrup and buried under Oreo cookies. Ask for an extra set of spoons. Make sure to leave some food, even if you are still hungry, and ask to have it wrapped. The waiter will remove your leftovers and return them inside a sculpture of plastic wrap covered with tin foil. Silver cats, scorpions, Loch Ness monsters and snails complete with spiral shells decorated the tables. Overall, the Montage is an enjoyable restaurant that delights the senses. The food was decent, although slightly overpriced. The atmosphere and experience will lure you back more than the menu or the cooking. Back to Table of Contents | Back to Main Index Previous Reviews | Top Of Page Send mail to The Voice| Journalism department website © 2003 The Voice. No part of this publication may be reproduced in written or electronic form without prior written consent from the journalism adviser of Multnomah Bible College. All rights reserved.