Review Andrea Laurita

Back to Table of Contents | Back to Main Index Previous Reviews | Send mail to The Voice Stardust Diner offers large portions and time travel The lightly battered halibut almost seems to be a side to the portion of large, seasoned fries toppling over the edges of the plate. A helping of cheese-drizzlzed broccoli adds color and finishes the platter with a generous 4-inch block of moist, mouth- melting cornbread. Fish and chips plates are a common menu favorite in the Northwest, but few restaurants build into their menu a variety of side dishes to enhance the entrée as does Stardust Diner. The 1950s-style American diner is one of two diners in the Vancouver and Portland area. The Diner, located at 1110 S.E. 164th Avenue in Vancouver, Wash., which looks like a polished chrome boxcar, is known for its breakfast selections. The morning menu flaunts the most popular order: eggs benedict. For $5.99, the diner whoops up a mean poached egg and Canadian bacon combo doused with hollandaise sauce on an English muffin. Omelets come in no fewer than six options. As if that wasn't food enough, a choice of hot cakes, hash browns, toast or fruit complements all breakfast meals. The model of American excess continues into lunch and dinner at this community kitchen frequented by movie-goers from the cinema across the street. Appetizers priced at $3.99 to $6.99 are a delightful smorgasbord of mozzarella cheese sticks, breaded jalapeno poppers, spicy beef nachos, zucchini sticks, battered onion rings and more for fried-food lovers. A 16 oz. whipped-cream, cherry-topped milkshake comes in traditional and a selection of not-so-traditional flavors. Soups and salads are scarce on the menu, unless you request them as a side order and are prepared for a dissatisfying sprinkle of wilted ice-berg lettuce or a 6-ounce cup of hearty concentrated soup. This is not the place for a vegetarian craving. Fortunately, the entrees come with side orders such as mashed potatoes and gravy or zucchini mix. Entrees won't cause you to dig too deep into your jeans pocket considering the portions could easily be split or doggie-bagged for tomorrow's lunch. Prices range from $5.99 to $9.99 for tempting options such as lasagna, Philly cheese steak, 8-ounce Burgandy Peppercorn steak or specialty sandwiches. Although this diner hosts no juke box, Buddy Holly's "Peggy Sue" and Elvis' "Are You Lonely Tonight?" play overhead. Framed beer ads, Coca-Cola signs and 1930s pages from Life magazine decorate the walls. This is an alcohol-free and unpretentious place to hang out and scribble notes on napkins or catch up with old friends over a warm slice of fresh apple pie. The stained appetizer menus list conversation ideas for first-date ice-breakers, such as "What's a fashion trend you followed and now wish you hadn't?" This casual restaurant won't necessarily rouse your taste-buds with flambouyant flavors but will satisfy any appetite for comfortable, easy dining. Stardust Diner, which opened Dec. 11, 2002, and changed management last June, is at the forefront of the return of the diner business. In the 1920s, diners had the reputation of being cheap, safe places to eat. They were greasy and overrun by fast-food chains in the late 1970s. But no longer the sticky target of Bounty paper-towel advertisements, diners are making a comeback. Stardust Diner bears the trademark of those original stripes that once made the American diner a staple in the community. Back to Table of Contents | Back to Main Index Previous Reviews | Top Of Page Send mail to The Voice| Journalism department website © 2004 The Voice. No part of this publication may be reproduced in written or electronic form without prior written consent from the journalism adviser of Multnomah Bible College. All rights reserved.