Review

Garrett Manthei

Back to Table of Contents | Back to Main Index
Previous Reviews | Send mail to The Voice

Staccato Gelato is Perfect for Colorful Atmosphere and Savory Sweets

The brightly colored shop on 28th and Burnside is a 10-minute drive from MBC.
--Garrett Manthei, photo

For a fun tasty treat or an out-of-the-norm brightly colored place to study, Staccato Gelato is a sweet spot. The menu is simple in options but extensive in flavor.

Staccato Gelato is a one-of-a-kind shop, which was opened a year ago by two sisters because Portland had no gelato shops. Staccato Gelato sits conveniently located on 28th Avenue between Burnside and Glisan streets and directly in front of the 19-line bus stop. Parking is tight in front but available around the corner.

The menu consists of three categories: gelato, coffee and donuts. The main attraction, however, is gelato, a close relative of ice cream. Gelato, denser and 10 degrees warmer than ice cream, melts in one's mouth with a smooth and creamy texture. The gelato at Staccato, made fresh daily, comes in an odd and delicious range of flavors from the curious Earl Grey and tiramisu to more familiar tastes such as mint chocolate chip and coffee. A scoop of hazelnut with a scoop of coffee makes a delightful combination.

Staccato Gelato also serves sorbet, such as strawberry and marionberry, made from local produce. The gelato and sorbet flavors change daily and are always fresh.

Prices for the gelato and sorbet range from $2 to $3.50. Order from three sizes -- not a lot, some and a lot -- fun terms for one, two and three scoops. The scoops are small but rich, making the serving size just right. For 75 cents more, you can have the option of an additional treat -- a cone, hot fudge or caramel.

Staccato's coffee fits in with the shop's Italian theme. Segafredo Zanetti is the brand the shop uses in all the coffee drinks and is so strong and bitter a coffee that it could put hair on your chest. Even the mocha tastes bitter with little chocolate flavor. Drink cautiously. Hot chocolate, hot tea and Oregon chai are available if you have less of an adventurous spirit.

For something colder, a few Italian canned or bottled beverages are for sale or fresh ice water is available for free. The prices for the hot drinks are also reasonable and occasionally cheaper than Multnomah's cafe. Staccato's 16-ounce chai, for example, is $2.75.

Staccato's donuts step in line with the creative taste of the gelato, coming in flavors such as pumpkin spice, plain and apple sauce. Donuts are a recent addition and only available on weekends but well worth the yummy wait. Be careful: They can be addicting. Staccato's donuts have a moist cake texture and are satisfyingly delicious. Prices for the donuts range from 50 cents to 85 cents.

The interior of Staccato shines with an intense combination of colorful walls, spherical paper lamps and a wall-sized mural of brown, pink, yellow and blue circles.

Complementing the intense color schemes are retro circular tables, long benches and a large yellow sofa made entirely of plastic -- reminiscent of one's pre-school days.

Quiet music plays in the background, bringing a relaxing feel to the otherwise loud decor.

Traffic inside is minimal and quiet, making Staccato a nice study spot. Prolonged use of the hard wooden chairs is not advised for lengthy study; however, the benches are padded for more comfortable seating.

If you have a memorable enough experience at Staccato Gelato, T-shirts, tank tops and bibs are available as souvenirs. Staccato is an experience that everyone should try, an experience in the taste of Italy.

Back to Table of Contents | Back to Main Index
Previous Features | Send mail to The Voice