Review

By: Mia King

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Persecuted Christian Makes
Fine Lebanese Food

Habibi's owner suffered beatings in Saudi Arabia before opening
his restaurant on Sowthwest Morrison in Portland, Ore.
--Mia King, photo

Walking into Habibi Lebanese Restaurant is like stepping into little Arabia. Arabic music plays in the background, and dimmed lights hang from small glass chandeliers while empty hookah pipes line the restaurant's walls.

Habibi, on Southwest Morrison, is a relatively new restaurant to Portland, located half a block past the 10th and Southwest Galleria MAX stop in Fairless Square.

Having lived in the Middle East for four years, I find that my expectations for Arabic restaurants in the United States are high and, until now, I have not found a place worth revisiting. Habibi, however, changed that. The hummus and warm bread take me back to the streets of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. Habibi houses only 14 tables -- almost all of them designed for two people.

Although it is a small restaurant, its menu is large. Habibi offers an extensive vegan menu, ranging from salads, Mediterranean spinach pies and falafel sandwiches. The menu is also filled with several savory meat choices such as nakanik, a broiled beef sausage sandwich, and shawarmas, which are similar to Greek gyros.

Meat platters, featuring beef, lamb and chicken mixed with vegetables and spices, are also available. And, for extra-famished diners, Habibi offers typical Arabic desserts such as baklava and rice pudding.

The cuisine itself is worth frequent visits, but the Christian owner secured my continued business with his story and charisma.

The owner, who requested his name not be printed, immigrated to the United States from Saudi Arabia in 2000. He is a native Syrian and persecuted follower of Christ. He recounted his experiences with the Saudi religious police, called the mutawa, who daily threatened violence and execution. He said that his breaking point came when the mutawa incarcerated him, trapping him in a room without food or water for three days. They gave him a Koran and tried to force him to accept Islam.

"Every time I told them I was a Christian and Jesus is my God, they beat me more," he said.

The experience left him hospitalized, trying to find a way to escape from Saudi Arabia. He had friends and family here in the Northwest, so he moved to Portland and started his small business -- Habibi.

For Multnomah students, Habibi is easily accessible from the MAX, and, considering the quality, prices are reasonable. A shawarma sandwich costs only $5.95 -- $8.75 if you make it a combo. The combo, served with warm pita bread, includes a Mediterranean-style salad with a tasty hummus plate. In Arabic, Habibi means "beloved one," and this is surely a beloved restaurant. If you are willing to go downtown for an excellent ethnic meal, Habibi will make the trip worth your while.

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