Review

By: Amanda Ng

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Thai Restaurant Closer,
Tastier Than You Think

Bai Yok is a short walk from Multnomah.
--Heather Peacock, photo

Picture a quaint, purple house. Upon walking into the house, one finds, instead of a living room, square mahogany tables and chairs filling the open floor.

Green Thai statues on the mantle welcome diners into the cozy room. Sunlight permeating the dark red curtains creates a soft red glow in the restaurant.

Opened five years ago, Bai Yok sits conspicuously on 82nd Avenue in the house that once was the Japanese restaurant Madam Butterfly.

One waitress single-handedly entertained the customers, carrying with her a pattern-etched metal pitcher, filling up their blue bottomed champagne glasses with ice-cold water.

The first dish arrived in a matter of minutes -- the sampler plate. Costing $9, the dish comprises deep fried tofu wedges, egg rolls, salad rolls, wantons and four dips.

The deep-fried items were cooked to perfection, and the slim egg rolls had a satisfactory crunch. All the items tasted delectable when dipped into the thick peanut sauce.

For seafood lovers, the $9.50 Yum Pla Muk will hit the spot. Presented like a salad, the grilled squid had just the right texture, mixed with onions, tomatoes, lime juice, mint leaves and spicy chili sauce.

Those looking for something with a wild name should try the Evil Jungle Noodles. The dish consists of steamed vermicelli drenched in Thai specialty curry with a choice of chicken, beef or pork. Filled with peanutty goodness, the dish is topped with a generous helping of lettuce, broccoli and carrots.

For a fiery treat, consider the Pad Kee Mao, also known as Drunken Noodles. The mouth-watering dish consists of Thai "no-nonsense" spicy rice noodles, choice of meat and fresh bean sprouts and sliced carrots on the side. A hint of basil lingers after each bite.

To sooth the tongue from the Pad Kee Mao, try the $2.50 mango nectar or $2 Thai iced tea. The first sip of the mango nectar blasts the tongue with the taste of rich, fresh-squeezed mango. The tea offers a bittersweet experience, providing a refreshingly sweet taste intermingled with a slightly bitter aftertaste.

To end the meal, try the mango with sticky rice or the fried bananas drizzled with chocolate syrup. The mango with sticky rice costs $5 and easily could be shared among three people. Thickly sliced mangoes covered in sesame seeds sit on a plate of rice drenched in coconut milk. The intense taste of the sweet-sour mango complements the warm rice.

Most dishes range from $9 to $13. A trip to Bai Yok would make a fun outing for a group wanting a family-style dining experience -- order several dishes and taste them all.

Located at 150 N.E. 82nd Ave., Bai Yok is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. On weekdays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Bai Yok offers lunch specials ranging from $6.50 to $8.50. For take-out, call 503-255-6222.

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