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Rimsky's is where the eclectic is king

Legs dangle from the ceiling and a mermaid reaches out her hands to present an offering of peace: toilet paper. The theme of the restroom is "under the sea," but the mannequin in the corner wearing a suit seems out of place, as much as anything is at Rimsky-Korsakoffee House.

Each of the dimly lit tables at Rimsky's greets the customer with an assortment of memorabilia commemorating a famous individual. A piece of glass covering the table shields the memorabilia underneath. A quick comparison with other tables and the theme of famous composers stands out. However, artist Vincent Van Gogh's name appears under the glass. Another theme crushed.

When dining at Rimsky's, expect the unexpected. Accept the absurd.

Rimsky's serves coffee drinks and desserts. The waiter presents the drinks in mugs that match the drink's flavor. A Mexican mocha comes in a Southwestern-style mug. The cappuccino comes in an artsy little shot mug. The mocha comes in a conservative mug with a calendar on the front.

The contents of the mugs are slightly less artsy. The waiter, dressed in blue jeans, explained that the barista on duty was new at the machine, but the waiter's lack of coffee knowledge also seemed suspect. When a patron asked for a skinny cappuccino, the waiter looked confused and asked the patron what skinny meant.

Espresso served at Rimsky's is strong and full-bodied with only a touch of bitterness. Rimsky's uses Kobos, a local brand of espresso. The Mexican mocha was well done with an equal mix of sweet and bitter. The espresso in the cappuccino was electrifyingly strong--the kind of espresso needed before a long night of studying.

The drinks were reasonably priced at $1.25 for a cup of coffee, $2.25 for a mocha, and $1.75 for a cappuccino or a latte. The desserts at Rimsky's were spendier at $4 a plate. The coffee shop's claim of "best dessert in Portland" did seem to fit the house special, Mocha Fudge Cake. The dessert tasted like a smooth, chilled brownie.

Rimsky's serves a variety of other desserts. Cheesecake is supposed to be a specialty, but it doesn't measure up to the quality expected. Ice cream sundaes with clever names such as "Rasputin's Vice" and "Tsar Sultan Suite" also grace the menu. The mountainous plates of ice cream look large enough to share.

The Mocha Fudge Cake was presented on a plain, white china dish with an assortment of mismatched napkins accompanying it. Following dessert, the waiter brought water in a variety of interesting glasses: a white opaque martini-style glass, a large frosted-pink glass, and an ice cream sundae glass.

When Rimsky's isn't busy, customers are encouraged to stay awhile and enjoy the atmosphere. The small tables squished closely together seat about four people. These tables fill the living and dining rooms of the house that is Rimsky's, making seating plentiful. With a dozen persons in Rimsky's, the house still feels empty.

The atmosphere of seclusion with the tinkling strains of a live classical piano in the background encourages conversation. Because prices may tax a college student's wallet, a special occasion might warrant a visit.

Finding Rimsky's is the most difficult part of a visit. Just ask someone who's been there. Rimsky's is a two-story, turn-of-the-century house with no sign indicating that it is a coffeehouse or a business. Rimsky's is located at 707 S.E. 12th Ave. Hours are from 7 p.m. to 12 p.m. on weekdays and 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. on weekends.