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Review

Celeste Flint



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Upscale French Restaurant Makes Magic for Its Patrons


La Brasserie's assorted ice cream is home-made. - Celeste Flint, photo



La Brasserie Montmarte is considered the best French restaurant in downtown Portland. With magicians moving from table to table performing tricks, tabletop crayon art and live jazz, La Brasserie finds itself at the top of Portland's best date restaurants.

Although La Brasserie has a unique feel, the items on the menu portray some of France's finest dishes.

The duck is heavy and flavorful, served with a red wine blueberry sauce and resting on top of fluffy mashed potatoes.

If the duck is too heavy, the rabbit moutarde is ideal. Braised and served with a white-wine Dijon mustard sauce, it is both flavorful and delicate.

The restaurant prides its rack of lamb, claiming it is the best in town.

Surprisingly, the frog legs taste much better than chicken. Served with a white wine, butter and caper sauce, they sent chills of joy down my spine.

You will find some of the best items -- from escargot to duck crepes -- on the starter menu. Items on this menu start at $5 and average around $8. Add French onion soup ($5) or a side salad ($3) to complete your meal.

The salads are made with organic tomatoes, house-made mozzarella cheese and tarragon or balsamic vinaigrette. For $3 you can add shrimp, blue cheese, grilled chicken or grilled salmon.

Most of the desserts cost $5.75. A favorite is the chocolate truffle torte served with raspberry coulis.

The entrees are filling and start around $13 and average about $16. Most of them are served with rice, potatoes or vegetables.

A nice restaurant does not guarantee a good drink. Virgin piņa coladas taste better from a juice can, but the strawberry daiquiris are fair and have a citrus zing.

The Brasserie hosts live jazz players every weeknight from 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. and on weekends from 8:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.

The waiters are quick to take orders but slow to deliver them. So a visit to La Brasserie takes a couple hours. The bar opens at 10 p.m. Those under age 21 are asked to leave by that time.

For a person who enjoys trying new foods and doesn't mind putting down extra money for a good meal, I highly recommend La Brasserie Montmarte. The food is delicious, and the experience, almost like a French circus, is well worth the expense.



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